2023 Bibi Graetz Testamatta Bianco

The 2023 Bibi Graetz Testamatta Bianco is a captivating Tuscan white that showcases the character of Italy’s Mediterranean coast in a refined, contemporary style. Crafted in small quantities, this wine marries coastal freshness with real depth and texture, making it as serious as it is effortlessly drinkable. It’s a distinctive expression of Tuscany that stands apart from the region’s more familiar reds.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, Testamatta Bianco 2023 presents a bright straw-yellow color with subtle golden highlights, hinting at both freshness and concentration. On the nose, it’s intensely aromatic yet precise: think ripe lemon, tangerine zest, and yellow plum wrapped in notes of wild herbs, Mediterranean scrub, and a salty sea breeze. Hints of jasmine, chamomile, and a touch of almond add complexity as it opens. The palate is vibrant and layered, combining a mouthwatering saline minerality with a generous, almost waxy texture from the old vines. Flavors of citrus, stone fruit, and white peach are supported by a core of crushed rock and subtle savory notes, leading to a long, sapid finish. While wonderfully expressive and approachable now, the structure and acidity suggest it will evolve beautifully over the next 5–7 years, gaining more nuttiness, honeyed nuances, and complexity with time in bottle.

Production
Testamatta Bianco is typically sourced from old Ansonica vines grown on the rocky, terraced slopes of the Tuscan coast and nearby islands, where poor, stony soils and constant sea breezes naturally limit yields and intensify flavor. The maritime climate—with warm days, cool nights, and high luminosity—helps preserve acidity and aromatic lift while allowing the grapes to reach full physiological ripeness. Harvest is done by hand, often in small crates, to ensure only the healthiest bunches make it into the cellar. In keeping with Bibi Graetz’s artisanal approach, the grapes are gently pressed and fermented with a light touch, often using native yeasts and a slow, temperature-controlled fermentation to preserve purity and nuance. Aging typically takes place in a mix of stainless steel and neutral or large-format oak, on fine lees, to build texture and complexity without overwhelming the natural character of the fruit.

Food & Serving
The 2023 Testamatta Bianco is a natural partner for seafood-driven Mediterranean cuisine: think grilled sea bass, bream, or turbot, seared scallops, shellfish platters, or linguine alle vongole. It also shines alongside crudo, sushi, and dishes featuring fennel, citrus, or fresh herbs, as well as lighter poultry, vegetable risotti, and soft-rind cheeses. Serve chilled but not ice-cold, ideally around 10–12°C (50–54°F) to let the aromatics fully express themselves. A short decant of 15–20 minutes, or simply opening the bottle a little before serving, can help the wine unfurl its more complex floral and savory notes.

Producer
Bibi Graetz is one of Tuscany’s most charismatic and influential modern winemakers, known for reimagining the potential of the region’s traditional varieties. Working from vineyards around Florence and on the Tuscan coast and islands, Graetz has built a reputation for crafting intensely characterful wines from old vines and often underappreciated sites. While he first rose to fame with his reds, Testamatta and Colore, his whites—especially Testamatta Bianco—have become benchmarks for expressive, terroir-driven Tuscan bianco. The estate’s commitment to low yields, meticulous handwork in the vineyards, and a minimalist, artisanal philosophy in the cellar has earned Bibi Graetz international acclaim and a loyal following among collectors and sommeliers worldwide.

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