2022 Olivier Merlin Pouilly-Fuissé Clos de France Premier Cru

The 2022 Olivier Merlin Pouilly-Fuissé Clos de France Premier Cru is a refined, small-production Chardonnay from one of Mâconnais’ most respected artisans. Drawn from a steep, old-vine parcel and recently elevated to Premier Cru status, it captures the tension between richness and precision that defines great white Burgundy. With just around 1,800 bottles produced, it’s a collector-worthy wine that offers both immediate pleasure and serious aging potential.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, Clos de France shows a luminous, pale gold color with green highlights, hinting at its freshness and youth. The nose is pure and detailed: ripe green apple, conference pear, and hints of fresh bread dough and brioche, layered with citrus zest, chalky minerality, and a gentle floral note. On the palate, this Pouilly-Fuissé is medium to full-bodied with a beautifully satin-like texture. The attack is silky yet vibrant, supported by perfectly judged acidity that keeps the wine lifted and precise. Flavors of juicy pear, green apple, and lemon curd mingle with subtle almond, fresh baguette crust, and a fine, saline, limestone-driven finish. Already harmonious in its youth, it will reward cellaring over 6–10 years, gaining further complexity, creamier texture, and more pronounced nutty, honeyed nuances with time.

Production
Clos de France is a steep (around 15% incline), east-facing Chardonnay vineyard in Pouilly-Fuissé, planted in 1965 and 1985, giving a high proportion of old vines with naturally low yields. The soil is calcareous schist, contributing both minerality and tension, and the site’s exposure ensures slow, even ripening while preserving acidity. Olivier and Corinne Merlin farm their vineyards without synthetic herbicides, pesticides, or artificial fertilizers, often working the soils traditionally—even with horse power in some parcels—to maintain living, balanced terroirs. A hallmark of Merlin’s philosophy is resting vineyards in fallow for several years to restore vitality. Grapes are harvested by hand at optimal ripeness, then vinified with a blend of Burgundian tradition and thoughtful modern technique—gentle pressing, careful temperature control, and élevage (typically in French oak, with a sensitive use of new barrels) designed to preserve purity, balance, and complexity rather than dominate with wood.

Food & Serving
This Premier Cru Pouilly-Fuissé is a versatile partner for refined cuisine: think butter-poached lobster, scallops in a light cream or citrus beurre blanc, grilled turbot or sole, roast chicken with herbs, veal in a white wine sauce, or richer dishes featuring morels and cream. It also works beautifully with fine goat cheeses and aged Comté, where its minerality and acidity cut through richness. Serve at 10–12°C (50–54°F) to showcase both freshness and depth. A light decant of 30–45 minutes is recommended in its youth to allow the wine to open aromatically, especially if served within a few years of the vintage.

Producer
Olivier and Corinne Merlin established their domaine in the village of Roche-Vineuse in the Mâconnais, a zone that has become one of Burgundy’s most exciting sources of high-quality Chardonnay. Olivier studied oenology in Beaune and refined his craft in the Jura and California’s Napa Valley before returning to Burgundy in 1987 to take over the historic but dilapidated Domaine du Vieux Saint-Sorlin, a property in the same family since 1750. Through meticulous vineyard work, low yields, and a deep respect for traditional farming—eschewing synthetic treatments, maintaining living soils, and even ploughing some vineyards with horses—the Merlins have helped redefine what Mâconnais wines can be, elevating them to serious, terroir-driven Burgundies. Their wines are widely admired for their balance, purity, complexity, and harmony, and they are considered among the benchmark producers of southern Burgundy.

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