2022 Fontanassa Cortese di Gavi Rabaci

Fontanassa’s 2022 Cortese di Gavi Rabaci puts a distinctive twist on one of Italy’s most beloved summer whites. Often dubbed “Italy’s Chablis,” Gavi is prized for its crystalline freshness and mineral precision, and Rabaci amplifies that character through an innovative ripasso-style vinification. Here, pure Cortese is re-fermented on the lees of Fontanassa’s Passito wine, adding texture, complexity and a subtle extra layer of depth to this bright, coastal-influenced white. This unique cuvée captures the tension between the cooling Ligurian sea breezes and the Apennine foothills that define Gavi’s microclimate. Fontanassa is among the elite producers allowed to bottle under the prestigious Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG, reflecting their long-standing commitment to quality since their first vintage in 1988. Rabaci, first released in mid-2023, is a modern expression rooted in centuries of Cortese tradition.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2022 Fontanassa Cortese di Gavi Rabaci shows a pale straw-yellow color with greenish highlights, clean and bright, hinting at its vibrancy. The nose opens with citrus zest and crunchy green apple, followed by white peach, pear skin and hints of acacia blossom. Underneath, there’s a distinct mineral thread—wet stone, sea spray and a gentle saline note—complemented by a delicate herbal touch reminiscent of fresh fennel or lemon balm. On the palate, Rabaci is taut and refreshing, with a lively, precise acidity that gives the wine real drive. Flavors of lemon, lime and green apple are layered with ripe stone fruit and a subtle, almost almond-like savoriness. The ripasso over Passito lees lends a slightly richer mid-palate and a fine, almost creamy texture, without sacrificing the wine’s hallmark crispness. The finish is long, saline and clean, making it exceptionally food-friendly. Enjoy it now for its energy and purity, though it has the structure to evolve over 3–5 years, gaining more honeyed, nutty and tertiary nuances while retaining its mineral backbone.

Production
The grapes for Rabaci come from Fontanassa’s estate vineyards in Rovereto, in the historical heart of the Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG. These south to south‑west facing slopes sit on marl-rich soils with clay, limestone and iron‑bearing sand, ideal for producing Cortese with tension, aromatic lift and marked minerality. The local microclimate is shaped by the nearby Ligurian Sea and the Apennine ridges, creating pronounced diurnal temperature shifts that preserve acidity and build complexity in the grapes. Vines are trained using the Guyot system and all fruit is harvested by hand to ensure optimal selection. After an initial fermentation of the Cortese must, the wine undergoes a ‘Gavi ripasso’—it is re-fermented on the lees from Fontanassa’s Passito wine. This technique adds texture, depth and aromatic complexity while remaining dry and precise. The wine is then refined in tank on fine lees before bottling, preserving its freshness and terroir expression.

Food & Serving
Rabaci is a natural partner for seafood and Mediterranean cuisine. Think Ligurian-style dishes such as grilled or baked sea bass with herbs, seafood risotto, spaghetti alle vongole, octopus salad, or simple crudo and oysters where its saline edge shines. It also pairs beautifully with fresh goat cheese, mozzarella, vegetable antipasti, light poultry dishes and sushi. Serve well-chilled at 8–10°C (46–50°F) to highlight its citrus and mineral notes. A brief 15–20 minute rest in the glass, rather than formal decanting, is sufficient to let the wine open; for older bottles or if you seek more texture, you can decant gently for about 20 minutes.

Producer
Fontanassa is a family-run estate based in Rovereto, at the historical core of the Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG, one of the appellation’s most prized zones. Owned and managed by Marco and Roberto Gemme, with winemaker Gaspare Buscemi, the estate produced its first vintage in 1988 and now farms around 27 hectares of vines. Their vineyards, planted on marl and clay-limestone slopes, capture the cooling maritime breezes from Liguria and the protective influence of the Apennines, conditions that have made Gavi the spiritual home of Cortese since at least the 17th century. Recognised as the leading producer in their commune and admitted to Gavi’s quality elite, Fontanassa is renowned for precise, terroir-driven whites that marry freshness, structure and authenticity, with Rabaci representing one of their most innovative and distinctive interpretations of Cortese.

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