2022 Bibi Graetz Colore Bianco

The 2022 Bibi Graetz Colore Bianco is one of Tuscany’s most coveted white wines, produced in tiny quantities from old Ansonica vines on the windswept island of Giglio. This is not just a coastal white, but a deeply characterful wine shaped by granite soils, sea breezes and low-yielding, century-old vineyards. In the 2022 vintage, a warmer year in Tuscany, careful vineyard management and the unique island setting delivered exceptionally healthy, concentrated fruit with remarkable freshness.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, Colore Bianco 2022 shows a luminous straw-gold hue with greenish reflections, hinting at both ripeness and vibrancy. The nose opens immediately with ripe white peach, thyme and wild Mediterranean herbs, followed by delicate white flowers and a subtle hint of candied lemon peel. Beneath the fruit and florals lies a distinct saline, sea-spray note that clearly speaks of its island origin. On the palate, this Ansonica is textured and structured, yet always lifted by a brisk, mouthwatering acidity and a fine, salty edge. Flavors echo the nose: stone fruit, lemon zest and a touch of citrus oil, wrapped around a core of mineral-driven tension derived from the ancient granite soils. The mid-palate is dense and layered, finishing long with nuances of herbs, crushed rock and a lingering, savory salinity. While already impressive in its youth, the combination of structure, acidity and minerality suggests a strong aging potential: it should evolve beautifully over 5–8 years, gaining complexity, honeyed notes and deeper nuttiness with time in bottle.

Production
The grapes for Colore Bianco 2022 come from the historic Pietrabona vineyard on the island of Giglio, where Ansonica has been cultivated for centuries in sandy soils born from thousand-year-old decomposed granite. Exposed to wind, sun and sea salt, these low-yielding vines are trained using the traditional Alberello alla Gigliese method—a local bush-vine adaptation of Guyot, keeping the vines low to the ground for protection from strong winds and harsh winters. Each Ansonica bunch is harvested by hand and transported in small baskets to the winery in Giglio Castello. After careful destemming and a very gentle pressing with the use of dry ice to protect the must, the wine undergoes a short maceration, then ferments at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks for 6–7 days. About 70% of the must is then moved into barriques for around 10 days without temperature control and subsequently aged for 7 months in barriques on the lees with bâtonnage, while the remaining 30% ferments and ages in stainless steel. This combination of oak and steel preserves freshness while building texture and complexity.

Food & Serving
Colore Bianco 2022 is a natural partner for refined seafood and Mediterranean cuisine: think grilled turbot, sea bass or bream, shellfish, octopus, and elegant crudo or carpaccio of fish. It also pairs beautifully with risotti (especially seafood or herb-based), poultry with lemon and herbs, and delicate vegetable dishes such as artichokes, fennel or white asparagus. Serve at 10–12°C (50–54°F) to showcase its aromatics and saline freshness. Young bottles benefit from a brief 30-minute decant or a good swirl in the glass to open up the layers of fruit, herbs and minerality.

Producer
Bibi Graetz, based in Fiesole overlooking Florence, has become one of Tuscany’s most intriguing and influential producers, despite being a relative newcomer compared with many historic estates. Trained as an artist, Bibi Graetz approaches wine with a creative, terroir-driven mindset, working predominantly with old vines and native varieties sourced from some of Tuscany’s most distinctive sites—including the dramatic, sea-battered vineyards of Giglio. His Colore and Testamatta wines have achieved international acclaim, helping redefine what Tuscan wines can be beyond the classic appellations. Colore Bianco stands as his flagship white, a benchmark expression of Ansonica and of the unique maritime terroir that surrounds the island of Giglio.

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