2021 Bibi Graetz Colore

The 2021 Bibi Graetz Colore is the flagship red of this visionary Tuscan producer, crafted almost entirely from venerable Sangiovese vines planted high in the hills of Lamole and other select parcels. This is a powerful yet remarkably refined wine, built on old-vine concentration, meticulous selection and a long, patient élevage. As one of the most sought‑after expressions of contemporary Tuscan Sangiovese, Colore stands as both a tribute to the region’s heritage and a bold, artisanal interpretation of what these ancient vineyards can achieve.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2021 Colore shows a deep, vibrant ruby hue with a shimmering, almost translucent edge that hints at both intensity and finesse. The nose is wonderfully layered and slow‑unfolding: at first, an abundance of red cherries and wild raspberries, followed by notes of iron-rich earth, crushed violets, rose petals and a delicate touch of dried herbs. With air, more complexity emerges—subtle hints of blood orange zest, spice and warm stones, all wrapped in a fragrant, floral lift. On the palate, Colore is full-bodied and concentrated yet strikingly elegant, with a core of pure red fruit—sour cherry, ripe raspberry and red currant—supported by sinewy, ripe tannins. There is a palpable sense of structure and “spine,” but the tannins are polished and layered rather than aggressive, carrying notes of crushed flowers, savory herbs and a faint, mineral salinity that recalls the high-altitude soils. The finish is long, persistent and precise, with a lingering impression of sweet red fruit, flowers and subtle spice. While already impressive in its youth, this 2021 is built for aging: it will reward patience and can comfortably evolve and gain complexity over 10–20 years or more under proper cellaring.

Production
Colore 2021 is sourced primarily from very old Sangiovese vines—some between 80 and 135 years of age—planted at altitude in Lamole, complemented by select plots in Vincigliata, Olmo and Sienna. These high-elevation, poor, stony soils and cooler conditions naturally limit yields while enhancing aromatic lift, tension and minerality in the fruit. Harvesting is done entirely by hand, with each vineyard picked in multiple passes—up to eight times—to ensure every bunch is taken at optimal ripeness. After an initial rigorous selection in the vineyard, the grapes undergo a second sorting at the winery before gentle destemming and pressing. Fermentation takes place with indigenous yeasts in open-top barriques, with 6–8 manual punchdowns per day and no temperature control, followed by an extended maceration on the skins. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine is transferred to new barriques for malolactic fermentation and then aged for a full three years before release. Only the very best barrels make it into the final blend of Colore.

Food & Serving
This powerful yet refined Sangiovese is a natural partner for richly flavored Tuscan and Italian dishes: think bistecca alla fiorentina, slow-braised lamb shanks, wild boar ragù, roasted game birds or aged pecorino and Parmigiano-Reggiano. It also shines alongside dishes with earthy components—porcini mushrooms, truffles, or roasted root vegetables—that echo the wine’s mineral and herbal nuances. Serve at 16–18°C (60–64°F) in large Burgundy or Bordeaux-style glasses to allow the aromatics to fully develop. Given its youth and structure, decanting is highly recommended: 2–3 hours in a decanter will help the 2021 Colore unfurl, though those with patience may prefer to let it rest in the cellar until around 2024/2025 and then follow its evolution over many years, perhaps checking in occasionally with a Coravin.

Producer
Bibi Graetz, based in Florence, has become one of the most compelling and individual voices in modern Tuscan wine. Trained as an artist rather than a traditional winemaker, Graetz began in the late 1990s with a vision to champion old, often overlooked vineyards of indigenous varieties—especially Sangiovese—planted in high-altitude and marginal sites across Tuscany. In a relatively short period, his wines have gained international acclaim and are now regarded as benchmarks for artisanal Tuscan reds outside the conventional DOCG framework. Colore, his top cuvée, is produced in very limited quantities and represents the pinnacle of his work with ancient vines, rigorous selection and minimalist, terroir-focused vinification—cementing Bibi Graetz’s reputation as a key figure in the renaissance and reimagining of Sangiovese in the region.

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