2020 Bibi Graetz Testamatta

The 2020 Bibi Graetz Testamatta is one of Tuscany’s modern icons, a pure and expressive Sangiovese that captures the energy and elegance of the region in a remarkably refined way. Crafted from old-vine fruit sourced from some of the highest and most characterful sites across Tuscany, it delivers both depth and vibrancy in the glass. Since its debut, Testamatta has helped redefine what Tuscan Sangiovese can be—less about power, more about finesse, purity, and emotion.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2020 Testamatta shows a luminous, medium to deep ruby-red core with youthful violet hues at the rim. The nose is immediately captivating, with vivid aromas of wild red cherries, ripe raspberries, and blood orange, layered with rose petals, sweet spices, fresh tobacco, and a gentle hint of graphite and crushed stone. On the palate, this vintage is all about precision and tension: juicy red berry fruit is framed by silky yet persistent tannins and a vibrant, mouthwatering acidity that gives the wine lift and length. Flavors of sour cherry, pomegranate, and red plum unfold into notes of dried herbs, subtle vanilla, and a fine mineral backbone, leading to a long, graceful finish. While already approachable in its youth for its freshness and finely knit texture, the 2020 Testamatta has the structure and balance to evolve beautifully over the next 10–15 years, gaining complexity and tertiary nuances with proper cellaring.

Production
Testamatta is sourced from old Sangiovese vines—many between 40 and 80 years old—planted in high-altitude parcels with poor, stony soils across Tuscany, including vineyards around Fiesole and other hillside sites that bring natural freshness and finesse. These elevated, well-drained vineyards, with a mix of galestro and sandstone, help maintain acidity and aromatic intensity even in warmer years. Grapes are carefully hand-harvested at optimal ripeness and rigorously sorted to ensure only pristine fruit makes it to the cellar. Fermentation typically takes place in open-top vats or small tanks, often with gentle extraction to emphasize purity over power. The wine is then aged in a combination of neutral and lightly toasted barrels—often large-format and used French oak—and sometimes concrete, allowing Sangiovese’s fine fruit and floral character to shine without heavy oak influence, before being bottled with minimal intervention to preserve authenticity.

Food & Serving
The 2020 Testamatta is a versatile yet refined partner at the table, pairing beautifully with classic Tuscan dishes such as bistecca alla fiorentina, grilled lamb chops with rosemary, or slow-braised beef and wild boar ragù over pappardelle. Its bright acidity and fine tannins also complement roasted poultry, mushroom risotto, and aged Italian cheeses like Pecorino Toscano or Parmigiano Reggiano. For optimal enjoyment, serve at 16–18°C (60–64°F). Decanting for 1–2 hours is recommended in its youth to allow the aromatics to fully open and the tannins to soften, revealing the wine’s layered, nuanced character.

Producer
Bibi Graetz is a relative newcomer by Tuscan standards, yet in just a few decades he has become one of the most celebrated and individual voices in Italian wine. Working from his family’s hilltop estate in Fiesole, overlooking Florence, Graetz built his reputation by placing old-vine, often neglected Sangiovese and other traditional varieties at the center of his vision, rather than following the typical international-style “Super Tuscan” model. Testamatta—literally “crazy head”—is his flagship red, a wine that has consistently earned critical acclaim and helped position him as a leading figure in contemporary Tuscan winemaking. Known for his artistic labels and intuitive, vineyard-driven approach, Bibi Graetz has played a key role in highlighting the potential of high-altitude, old-vine sites and in showcasing a more elegant, terroir-focused interpretation of Tuscany on the world stage.

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