2020 Ao Yun Shangri-La

2020 Ao Yun Shangri-La is one of the most sought-after Chinese red wines, crafted high in the Himalayas in Yunnan, at altitudes between 2,200 and 2,600 meters above sea level. Conceived by LVMH and guided by Bordeaux-trained winemaker Maxence Dulou (formerly of Cheval Blanc, Le Tour de Pin and Quinault L’Enclos), it set out to prove that China can produce truly world-class, Bordeaux-style wines. The name “Ao Yun” means “flying above the clouds” in Mandarin, a fitting tribute to the spectacular clouds that gather over the permanently snow-capped Meili mountain that towers above the vineyards.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2020 Ao Yun Shangri-La shows a deep, dense ruby-purple color with an almost opaque core, hinting at its concentration and youth. The nose is immediately complex and refined, opening with layers of blackcurrant, black cherry and wild blueberry, followed by graphite, cedar, violet and subtle spices. With air, more nuances emerge: tobacco leaf, dried rose, cracked pepper, hints of sandalwood and a delicate, cool mountain herbal note that speaks clearly of its high-altitude origin. On the palate, this is a structured yet finely textured wine, combining freshness and ripeness in a way that is rare in such powerful reds. The Cabernet Sauvignon–led blend (around 60%, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot) delivers a core of dark fruit – cassis, plum and blackberry – wrapped in precise, polished tannins. There is real tension and verticality from the altitude, with vibrant acidity keeping the wine lifted and energetic, while the mid-palate shows impressive density and length. Oak is beautifully integrated thanks to a careful élevage (including amphora-style pots and only about 30% new barrels), adding gentle notes of cocoa, spice and toast without overshadowing the fruit. The finish is long, mineral and saline, with lingering notes of dark berries, fine tobacco and floral spice. This is a wine built for the long haul: it is already compelling in youth, but will reward 10–20 years of careful cellaring, gaining complexity and silkiness over time.

Production
Ao Yun’s vineyards are scattered across four remote villages near Shangri-La in northern Yunnan, at the foot of the sacred Meili mountain in the Himalayan foothills. Planted at elevations between roughly 2,200 and 2,600 meters, the vines benefit from intense sunlight, cool nights and a long growing season, yielding grapes of remarkable aromatic intensity and natural freshness. The terroir is a mosaic of tiny plots – 314 parcels further divided into more than 700 micro-parcels – all cultivated entirely by hand by local farmers who have been trained in viticulture while preserving their long-standing agro-ecological traditions. Only about half of the harvested grapes were ultimately selected for the 2020 blend, reflecting an uncompromising approach to quality. Vinification is carried out parcel by parcel to respect the nuances of each plot, followed by an intricate maturation regimen: around half of the wine begins its aging in pots for about five months, preserving purity and texture, before spending a further ten months in French oak barrels, only about 30% of which are new. Production is extremely limited, with fewer than 10,000 bottles of the 2020 vintage released globally, packaged in elegant individual bamboo cases and distributed via the Place de Bordeaux.

Food & Serving
The 2020 Ao Yun Shangri-La is an outstanding partner for refined, richly flavored dishes that mirror its depth and structure. Think dry-aged ribeye or côte de boeuf, slow-braised lamb shank with rosemary, Peking duck with lacquered skin, or venison with a dark berry jus. It also pairs beautifully with truffle-infused dishes, wild mushroom ragù, and aged hard cheeses like Comté, Pecorino or mature Cheddar. Serve at 16–18°C (around 60–64°F) to highlight its aromatic precision and balance. Given its youth and concentration, decanting is highly recommended: 1–2 hours in a decanter will help the tannins soften and allow the layered aromas to unfold fully, though the wine will continue to evolve and improve with additional time in the glass.

Producer
Ao Yun is one of China’s flagship fine-wine estates and a pioneering project from luxury group LVMH, launched with the ambition to create a world-class, Bordeaux-style red in an entirely new wine region. After a four-year exploration beginning in 2008, the team identified the high-altitude slopes around Shangri-La in Yunnan as the ideal site, thanks to its dramatic Himalayan setting, cool climate and exceptional light. Since its first commercial vintage in 2013, Ao Yun has quickly become a reference point not only for Chinese wine but for high-altitude viticulture globally, earning international acclaim and high critical ratings. The estate’s work with local farming communities, its meticulous parcel selection and its singular terroir at the foot of Meili mountain have positioned Ao Yun as a benchmark producer, demonstrating that China can stand alongside the world’s great wine regions.

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