2018 Giacomo Conterno Nervi Gattinara Vigna Valferana Magnum

The 2018 Giacomo Conterno Nervi Gattinara Vigna Valferana Magnum is a commanding expression of Nebbiolo from one of Alto Piemonte’s most storied crus. Bottled in magnum for extended, graceful aging, this wine combines the precision of Gattinara’s volcanic terroir with the discipline and depth that define the Conterno style. Vigna Valferana is a historic single vineyard, and under Giacomo Conterno’s stewardship it has emerged as one of the benchmark sites for Nebbiolo outside of Barolo.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2018 Vigna Valferana shows a luminous garnet core with classic brick-tinged edges, already hinting at its Nebbiolo pedigree and long life ahead. The nose is intricate and evolving, with lifted aromas of sour cherry, wild strawberry, rose petals, and violet, layered with notes of blood orange zest, licorice, iron, and crushed stone, plus a subtle hint of dried herbs and underbrush. On the palate, the wine is taut yet finely woven, offering a precise, linear structure framed by firm but ultra-refined tannins. Flavors of red cherry, pomegranate, and cranberry interplay with savory accents of tobacco leaf, black tea, and dried rose, all carried by a vibrant, mineral-driven acidity. The volcanic and iron-rich soils show through in a palpable sense of salinity and ferrous grip on the long, focused finish. In magnum, this 2018 is built for cellaring: it is already graceful but will gain complexity and tertiary nuance over 15–25 years, rewarding patience with layers of truffle, leather, and forest floor.

Production
Vigna Valferana is one of Gattinara’s most prized crus, planted on steep, well-drained slopes of ancient volcanic and porphyry-rich soils that lend the wine its signature mineral backbone and iron-inflected character. Nebbiolo (locally called Spanna) is sourced from low-yielding vines carefully tended and harvested by hand to ensure perfect selection at the sorting table. In the cellar, Giacomo Conterno follows a rigorously traditional approach: a long, slow fermentation and maceration to extract fine tannins and aromatic depth, followed by extended aging in large Slavonian oak botti. This patient, minimalist vinification allows the character of Valferana’s terroir and the nuances of the 2018 vintage to shine through with clarity and precision, especially in the magnum format.

Food & Serving
This Gattinara is a natural match for refined, savory dishes that can stand up to Nebbiolo’s structure. Think braised veal shank, ossobuco, roasted lamb with rosemary, game birds, or porcini mushroom risotto; aged cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano, mature Taleggio, or Castelmagno also pair beautifully. Serve at 16–18°C (60–64°F) to highlight aromatics without emphasizing the tannins. In its youth, decanting for 2–3 hours is recommended to allow the wine to open and soften; as it matures, a gentle 1-hour decant to remove sediment and let the bouquet blossom will be ample.

Producer
Nervi is the oldest documented winery in Gattinara, founded in the 19th century, and its reputation was elevated further when Roberto Conterno of the legendary Barolo estate Giacomo Conterno took the helm. Under the Nervi–Conterno banner, the estate has become the reference point for classically styled, age-worthy Nebbiolo from Alto Piemonte, showcasing the region’s cooler climate and volcanic soils in contrast to the marls of Barolo. Meticulous vineyard work, low yields, and a steadfast commitment to traditional large-cask aging have earned the winery international acclaim and cemented its status as one of Italy’s most important producers of mountain Nebbiolo, with single-vineyard bottlings like Vigna Valferana at the very top of the hierarchy.

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