2017 Valentini Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

The 2017 Valentini Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is one of those rare bottles that serious collectors and sommeliers speak about in almost reverent tones. Produced in minuscule quantities and released only when the estate deems the wine ready, it marries old-school Abruzzo character with a level of finesse and depth that few Montepulciano wines ever reach. This is not just a red from Abruzzo; it is a benchmark for the grape and the region.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2017 shows an intense, deep ruby core with garnet reflections beginning to appear at the rim, hinting at both concentration and early development. The nose is layered and compelling: black cherry, wild blackberry and plum merge with notes of dried rose, tobacco leaf, leather and forest floor, supported by nuances of licorice, dark cocoa, iron and a subtle sauvage note that betrays its traditional upbringing. On the palate, the wine is powerful yet remarkably poised, with a dense, velvety texture and vibrant acidity that keeps everything lifted and fresh. Flavors echo the aromatics—ripe black and red fruits wrapped in savory notes of cured meat, spice box, dried herbs and earthy minerality. Firm, fine-grained tannins provide serious structure, suggesting a long life ahead, while the finish is long, saline and slightly smoky, lingering with black cherry, dried herbs and a touch of balsamic complexity. This 2017 has excellent aging potential; stored properly, it should continue to evolve and gain tertiary complexity for 15–25 years from vintage, and likely longer.

Production
Sourced from Valentini’s estate vineyards in Abruzzo, this Montepulciano d’Abruzzo reflects a rugged yet noble terroir of hillside plots influenced by both the Adriatic Sea and the Apennine mountains. The vines are farmed organically with a strong emphasis on low yields and careful canopy management to achieve optimal ripeness while preserving natural acidity. Harvest is carried out by hand, with strict selection of bunches in the vineyard. In the cellar, Valentini adheres to a resolutely traditional, low-intervention philosophy: spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, extended maceration on the skins and a long, patient élevage in large Slavonian oak botti. There is no rush to bottle or release; the wine is only put on the market when the estate believes it expresses the full character of the vintage and the place.

Food & Serving
This is a serious, structured Montepulciano that shines alongside robust, savory dishes. Think slow-braised lamb shanks, ossobuco, rich beef ragù over pappardelle, game dishes, aged Pecorino, or grilled bistecca alla fiorentina. It also works beautifully with truffle dishes and earthy mushroom preparations that echo its forest-floor notes. Serve at 16–18°C (60–64°F) in large Bordeaux-style glasses. Decanting for 1–3 hours is strongly recommended in its youth to let the aromatics unfurl and the tannins relax; older bottles should be opened more gently and decanted briefly, primarily to remove sediment.

Producer
Azienda Agricola Valentini, founded in the early 20th century by Edoardo Valentini, has long been regarded as one of Italy’s most enigmatic and revered estates. From the outset, Edoardo focused on traditional methods and native Abruzzese varieties, particularly Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Montepulciano, laying the foundations for the estate’s near-mythical reputation. Under the guidance of his son, Francesco Paolo Valentini, the winery gained international acclaim, especially for its age-worthy Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and profound Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which are widely seen as reference points for the region. Production is famously small, releases are irregular and guided solely by quality, and the wines are fiercely sought after by collectors worldwide. Valentini’s steadfast commitment to terroir expression, organic farming and minimal intervention has made the estate a cornerstone of Abruzzo’s fine wine identity and one of the most respected names in Italian wine.

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