2017 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité

From one of Saint-Aubin’s most exacting artisans, the 2017 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité is a rare, high-density planting that captures the pure, chiselled side of Côte de Beaune Chardonnay. Planted at exceptionally tight spacing, this “Haute Densité” parcel yields tiny quantities of intensely concentrated fruit, resulting in a wine of remarkable energy, depth, and precision. The Lamy family has cultivated vines in Saint-Aubin since 1640, and this cuvée represents the cutting edge of that centuries-long savoir-faire, marrying Burgundian tradition with meticulous, modern viticulture.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, this Premier Cru shows a luminous, pale straw-gold hue with green highlights, signalling both youth and freshness. The nose is vibrant and finely etched: lifted aromas of white blossom, Meyer lemon, and cool orchard fruit intertwine with notes of crushed stone, flint, and a delicate hint of toasted hazelnut and fresh bread dough from élevage on the lees. On the palate, the Haute Densité planting truly asserts itself. The attack is precise and taut, with racy citrus, green apple, and pear skin leading into a more layered mid-palate of ripe stone fruit, salted almond, and subtle spice. The texture is at once concentrated and finely knit, with a palpable core of chalky, saline minerality that drives through to a long, linear finish. Oak is beautifully integrated, providing gentle structure rather than overt flavor. Still youthful, the 2017 is drinking well now with aeration, but it has the backbone and acidity to evolve gracefully over 10–15 years from the vintage, gaining creamier texture and greater complexity with time in the cellar.

Production
Derrière Chez Edouard is a Premier Cru site in Saint-Aubin, perched on the cooler, limestone-rich slopes of the Côte de Beaune, where thin, stony soils over hard limestone and a breezy exposition naturally favor tension and minerality in Chardonnay. For the Haute Densité cuvée, Hubert Lamy has planted the vineyard at extremely high density—far beyond standard Burgundy norms—to force the vines to compete, pushing roots deeper and naturally limiting yields for maximum concentration. The domaine works with lutte raisonnée, minimizing treatments and eschewing synthetic fertilizers in favor of organic compost, and all grapes are carefully hand-harvested at optimal ripeness. In the cellar, the fruit is gently pressed and the juice is fermented with indigenous yeasts in Burgundy pièces, with a judicious proportion of new oak. The wine is aged on fine lees, typically for around 12–18 months, with minimal bâtonnage, and is bottled with light filtration to preserve finesse and terroir expression.

Food & Serving
This refined Saint-Aubin 1er Cru shines alongside delicately prepared seafood and elegant white meat dishes. Think grilled turbot, poached sole with beurre blanc, seared scallops, butter-basted lobster, or roast chicken with morel cream sauce and spring vegetables. It also pairs beautifully with fine, creamy cheeses such as Comté, Brie de Meaux, or young, lightly aged goat’s cheese, where its acidity and minerality cut through richness. Serve at 10–12°C (50–54°F) to highlight its tension and aromatic complexity. For current drinking, decanting for 30–45 minutes is recommended to allow the wine to open fully; as it ages, a shorter decant just to remove any bottle reduction will suffice.

Producer
The Lamy family has tended vines in Saint-Aubin since 1640, and Domaine Hubert Lamy, formally established in 1973, has grown from a modest 8 hectares of mostly regional vineyards into one of the benchmark estates of the Côte de Beaune. Today the domaine farms around 18.5 hectares, planted predominantly to Chardonnay with a smaller share of Pinot Noir, across prized sites in Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, and Santenay. Known for its rigorous work in the vineyards, high-density plantings, and sensitive, terroir-driven winemaking, Hubert Lamy has been instrumental in elevating Saint-Aubin from an insider’s secret to a serious source of top-flight white Burgundy. The estate’s wines are now sought after worldwide for their combination of intensity, precision, and age-worthiness, with the Haute Densité bottlings standing among the most distinctive and limited in the range.

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