2009 Champagne Philipponnat Extra Brut Clos des Goisses Magnum

Bottled in an impressive magnum format, the 2009 Champagne Philipponnat Extra Brut Clos des Goisses is one of Champagne’s true cult wines, sourced from one of the region’s most legendary single vineyards. This is not just a prestige cuvée, but a powerful, ageworthy wine that happens to sparkle, made for serious cellaring and unforgettable meals. With its ultra-steep, south-facing slopes and ultra-low yields, Clos des Goisses delivers a Champagne of remarkable intensity, depth, and mineral precision.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 2009 Clos des Goisses shimmers a luminous golden straw, with a fine, persistent mousse that hints at its long lees aging. The nose is complex and immediately inviting, opening with notes of warm brioche and fresh pastry, followed by ripe yellow peach, mature citrus, candied lemon peel, and a subtle chalky imprint that speaks of its limestone-rich slope. On the palate this Extra Brut is full-bodied, deep, and layered, with an almost vinous intensity more akin to a great white Burgundy than a typical Champagne. The attack is broad and textural, then tightens around a muscular, finely chiseled core of citrus, stone fruit, toast, and intense mineral drive. The very low dosage (around 4.25 g/L) leaves the wine feeling dry, precise, and long, finishing with great length and a lingering saline, chalky lift. Already impressive, the 2009 in magnum has the structure and freshness to age gracefully for decades, gaining even more nuance, complexity, and tertiary notes over time.

Production
Clos des Goisses is a walled, 5.83-hectare vineyard—the oldest and steepest clos in Champagne—perched on a dramatic, south-facing slope in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, with gradients reaching up to 45°. The thin topsoil and limestone bedrock sit very close to the surface, giving the wine its profound minerality and tension. Typically planted predominantly to Pinot Noir with a complement of Chardonnay, the vineyard is worked at very low yields, and fruit is harvested by hand to ensure optimal ripeness. For the 2009, Philipponnat vinified about 64% of the wine in oak barrels, adding texture and complexity without inducing premature oxidation, while blocking malolactic fermentation to preserve the natural acidity and backbone. The wine then rested sur lie in bottle for eight years in the house’s historic, naturally cool cellars at 12°C, undergoing its secondary fermentation before being disgorged with a very low Extra Brut dosage to showcase the purity and power of the terroir.

Food & Serving
This is a gastronomic Champagne that shines at the table, particularly in magnum. Its structure and intensity make it a superb match for richly flavored dishes: think lobster with beurre blanc, turbot or other firm white fish in creamy sauces, roasted poultry with morels, or veal with truffle. It also pairs beautifully with refined, soft-rind cheeses such as Brie de Meaux, Chaource, or aged triple-cream styles. Serve well-chilled but not icy, ideally around 10–12°C (50–54°F), to allow the aromatics and texture to fully unfold. Given its depth and age, decanting in a chilled carafe shortly before serving can help the wine open up and reveal its many layers, particularly in the early years of its drinking window.

Producer
Philipponnat is one of Champagne’s most respected family-owned houses, with roots in the region dating back to the 16th century. Based in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, the estate has built its reputation on producing characterful, terroir-driven Champagnes, with Clos des Goisses as its undisputed crown jewel and one of the very first single-vineyard Champagnes ever bottled and marketed as such. Over the decades, Clos des Goisses has become a benchmark for powerful, ageworthy Champagne, frequently lauded by critics and collectors alike for its ability to evolve magnificently over many years. Philipponnat’s commitment to low yields, careful vineyard work, and meticulous, non-interventionist winemaking has cemented its standing as a reference point for serious Champagne lovers worldwide.

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