1999 Champagne Philipponnat Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V.

From one of Champagne’s most legendary single vineyards, the 1999 Champagne Philipponnat Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. is a late-disgorged expression of extraordinary depth and finesse. Drawn from the dramatically steep, walled slopes of Clos des Goisses, this long‑aged cuvée showcases the full, vinous power of this terroir with the crystalline precision of Extra Brut dosage. As one of the very first single-vineyard Champagnes ever produced and still one of the region’s most iconic bottlings, Clos des Goisses has been setting the benchmark for ageworthy, gastronomic Champagne since the 1930s.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, the 1999 Clos des Goisses L.V. shows a deep, burnished golden hue, a visual clue to its extended aging, with an elegant and persistent bead of very fine bubbles forming a delicate and enduring ring at the surface. The nose opens initially with striking freshness for its age, revealing yellow orchard fruits—mirabelle plum, ripe green and golden apple—before unfurling layers of acacia blossom, dried flowers, and subtle notes of honeycomb. With air, more tertiary nuances appear: toasted brioche, roasted nuts, light smoke, and a gentle, creamy patisserie character, all framed by a distinct chalky minerality. On the palate, this Champagne is broad-shouldered and intensely vinous, more akin to a great white Burgundy from grand cru terroir than a simple aperitif Champagne. Fruit-driven flavors of baked apple, mirabelle, and citrus zest are interwoven with notes of honey, linden blossom, and delicate spice from partial oak vinification. The texture is enveloping and silky, yet the line of acidity is taut and precise, thanks to the absence of malolactic fermentation. The finish is long, saline, and tightly mineral, with a dry, chalk-inflected tension that counterbalances the wine’s richness. As a late-disgorged release that has already matured for many years on its lees and in bottle, it is beautifully evolved but still remarkably youthful, with the structure and concentration to continue developing for decades under proper cellaring.

Production
Clos des Goisses is a 5.83-hectare, walled vineyard—one of the very few true ‘clos’ in Champagne and the oldest and steepest of them all—perched on the best south-facing slope of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Its dramatic 45° incline maximizes sun exposure, while the extremely shallow soils over pure chalk bedrock give the wines their signature power, tension, and saline minerality. The blend typically favors Pinot Noir (around 70–75%) with Chardonnay making up the balance, all sourced exclusively from this single hillside. Grapes are harvested by hand due to the slope’s severity, allowing for meticulous selection of perfectly ripe bunches. A significant portion of the must is vinified in oak barrels, bringing added texture and complexity without inducing premature oxidation, while the remainder is fermented in tank to preserve purity and tension. Malolactic fermentation is blocked to retain the natural, vibrant acidity that is essential to balancing the vineyard’s opulence. The wine then undergoes its secondary fermentation in bottle and rests sur lie in Philipponnat’s historic cellars at a constant 12°C for an extended period—far longer than the appellation requires—before late disgorgement and finishing with a very low Extra Brut dosage (around 4 g/L), allowing the terroir’s vinous character and striking minerality to shine with clarity.

Food & Serving
This is a deeply gastronomic Champagne that shines with richly flavored dishes rather than simple aperitif fare. Its intensity and structure make it superb with lobster or langoustine, butter-poached turbot, scallops with beurre blanc, and refined poultry dishes such as roast guinea fowl with morels. It also pairs beautifully with veal sweetbreads, truffled dishes, and aged, creamy cheeses like Chaource or mild Brie de Meaux. Serve at 10–12°C to allow the full aromatic spectrum and texture to emerge. Given its age, complexity, and late-disgorged character, this Clos des Goisses L.V. benefits from gentle aeration—decanting 30–60 minutes before serving in large, white-wine style glasses can help the wine fully open and reveal its layers.

Producer
Philipponnat is a historic Champagne house based in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, with roots in the region dating back to the early 16th century. Over generations, the family has built a reputation for producing Champagnes of depth, vinosity, and precision, with a particular emphasis on Pinot Noir and exceptional terroir expression. Their stewardship of Clos des Goisses, acquired in the 1930s, placed them at the forefront of the single-vineyard Champagne movement; Clos des Goisses is widely regarded as one of the greatest sites in the region and a reference point for ageworthy, gastronomic Champagne. Philipponnat’s commitment to low dosage, careful oak use, and long lees aging has earned them a loyal following among sommeliers and collectors, and their wines frequently feature in top rankings and on the lists of the world’s finest restaurants.

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