1998 Champagne Philipponnat Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V.

The 1998 Champagne Philipponnat Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. is a rare late-disgorged release from one of Champagne’s most legendary single vineyards. Drawn from the precipitous, south-facing slopes of Clos des Goisses and aged extensively on lees, this cuvée offers a level of depth and complexity that only time can unlock. The “L.V.” (Long Vieillissement) designation signals an extended maturation in Philipponnat’s cellars, resulting in an exquisitely evolved, yet remarkably vibrant, prestige Champagne.

Tasting Notes
In the glass, this 1998 Clos des Goisses L.V. shows a deep, radiant golden hue with a fine, persistent mousse that speaks to its long aging and careful handling. The nose is intensely layered: notes of toasted brioche, hazelnut and praline mingle with dried apricot, candied citrus peel, honeycomb, and hints of truffle and chamomile. With air, more savory nuances emerge—smoke, chalk, and a delicate iodine edge reflecting the vineyard’s unique terroir. On the palate, the wine is powerful yet supremely refined, combining the structure of Pinot Noir with the finesse of Chardonnay. The attack is broad and vinous, with flavors of baked apple, mirabelle plum, dried fig, roasted almonds, and citrus oil, framed by a vibrant, saline acidity. The Extra Brut dosage keeps the wine taut and focused, highlighting its chalky spine and long, resonant finish, where notes of spice, toasted bread and mineral linger. Despite its age, this late-disgorged 1998 still has impressive energy and can continue to evolve for several more years in a proper cellar, offering a more tertiary, truffle- and nut-driven profile over time.

Production
Clos des Goisses is a steep, walled, south-facing vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, one of Champagne’s most prized terroirs, with slopes reaching up to 45 degrees and pure chalk subsoils that ensure excellent drainage and a distinctive mineral imprint. The blend is traditionally dominated by Pinot Noir complemented by Chardonnay, all sourced exclusively from this single clos. The grapes are hand-harvested at optimal ripeness due to the vineyard’s warm exposure, often achieving a ripeness level that allows for low dosage and a particularly dry style. Vinification is carried out partly in tank and often with a significant proportion in oak to enhance texture and complexity, followed by a long period of aging on lees in bottle—the hallmark of the L.V. releases. The Extra Brut dosage is kept very low, allowing the character of the vintage and the terroir to speak clearly.

Food & Serving
This 1998 Clos des Goisses L.V. is a gastronomic Champagne that shines at the table. Pair it with refined dishes such as lobster with beurre blanc, scallops with truffle, turbot or sole in a creamy sauce, or rich poultry like Bresse chicken with morels. It also marries beautifully with aged hard cheeses and mature Comté, as well as delicate veal or sweetbreads. Serve at around 10–12°C (50–54°F) to allow the full aromatic spectrum to unfold. Decanting 20–30 minutes before serving—unusual but appropriate for such a vinous, mature Champagne—can help the wine open up and reveal its most intricate layers.

Producer
Philipponnat is a historic Champagne house with roots in the region dating back to the 16th century, and has long been celebrated for crafting wines of character and depth. Based in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, the family has been closely tied to some of Champagne’s finest terroirs, with Clos des Goisses as its crown jewel—one of the first single-vineyard Champagnes to be bottled and named as such, and a benchmark for terroir-driven, ageworthy Champagne. Over the decades, Philipponnat has earned a reputation among connoisseurs for its low-dosage, intensely vinous style and its commitment to expressing the nuances of site and vintage, with Clos des Goisses and its rare L.V. releases standing as some of the most sought-after wines in their category.

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