Kumeu River is the Brajkovich family estate in Kumeu, northwest of Auckland, and one of New Zealand's most celebrated names for Burgundian-style Chardonnay. Here you will find the range from Village and Estate up to the single-vineyard wines Mate's Vineyard, Hunting Hill, Coddington and Rays Road.
Kumeu River: the Brajkovich family and Chardonnay from Auckland
The story starts on the Dalmatian coast of Croatia. Mick and Katé Brajkovich arrived in New Zealand in 1937, and in 1944 the family bought a property with a small vineyard in Kumeu, about 30 kilometres northwest of Auckland. For many years it was known as San Marino Vineyards. Their son Maté carried on the work, and in 1979 the old hybrid vines were replaced with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
The next generation took the decisive step. Michael Brajkovich worked a vintage in France in 1983 and came home with a clear idea of Chardonnay made the Burgundian way. In 1986 the estate became Kumeu River Wines, and in 1989 Michael became New Zealand's first Master of Wine. Today he runs the estate with his siblings Milan, Paul and Marijana. At a blind tasting in London in 2015, Kumeu River Chardonnay came out ahead of several well-known white Burgundies.
Single-vineyard Kumeu River Chardonnay: Mate's Vineyard, Hunting Hill and Coddington
The best sites are bottled separately, so the differences in soil and aspect show in the glass. Mate's Vineyard is the flagship. Maté Brajkovich planted Chardonnay here in 1990, on the site of the family's very first vineyard from 1944, and the wine has carried his name since he died in 1992. It is the most concentrated and powerful wine in the range.
Hunting Hill sits on a hillside and gives a tighter, more mineral style known for its ageing potential. Coddington, on heavy clay, is the most generous of the three, with ripe peach and apricot. Rays Road lies higher and cooler on limestone in Hawke's Bay, a vineyard the family bought in 2017. Estate Chardonnay is a blend from the Kumeu vineyards, and Village is the entry point to the range.
Kumeu River Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and sparkling Crémant
The family planted its first Pinot Noir in Kumeu in the mid-1980s. Hunting Hill Pinot Noir from clay soils shows pure, dark fruit, while Rays Road Pinot Noir from the Hawke's Bay limestone is more intense and focused. Village Pinot Noir is the entry point to the reds. Village Pinot Gris is dry and fruit-driven. The sparkling Kumeu River Crémant is made by the traditional method from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and spends a long time on its lees.
In the vineyard, the vines grow on clay over sandstone that holds moisture deep down, so no irrigation is needed, and every grape is picked by hand. In the cellar the fruit is whole-bunch pressed, fermented with wild yeasts in French oak barrels, and goes through full malolactic fermentation and extended lees ageing. The aim is freshness and balance rather than heavy oak.
Explore more New Zealand wine, find more bottles of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris, or try another New Zealand producer such as Cloudy Bay.
Kumeu River FAQ
Where is Kumeu River?
In Kumeu, about 30 kilometres northwest of Auckland on New Zealand's North Island. The family also owns the Rays Road vineyard in Hawke's Bay.
Which Kumeu River Chardonnay should I choose?
Village and Estate show the house style in a more approachable form. To compare sites, put Mate's Vineyard, Hunting Hill and Coddington side by side: power, minerality and generous fruit in turn. Rays Road shows how the Hawke's Bay limestone differs from the Kumeu clay.
Can Kumeu River Chardonnay age?
Yes. The single-vineyard wines are made to develop in bottle, and Hunting Hill has a reputation for ageing particularly well.
How should I serve Kumeu River Chardonnay?
At 11 to 13 °C in a large glass. The wines suit fish, shellfish, chicken and dishes with butter or cream.