Domaine Zind-Humbrecht: biodynamic Alsace wine from Turckheim
If you want to understand why people get so excited about Alsace wine, Zind-Humbrecht is a good place to start. The Humbrecht family has grown vines since 1620, but the domaine as it is known today was created in 1959, when Léonard Humbrecht married Geneviève Zind. Their son Olivier Humbrecht took over the winemaking in 1989, the same year he became the first Frenchman to qualify as a Master of Wine. Today he runs the domaine with his wife Margaret, and their son Pierre-Émile joined in 2019.
The estate, based in Turckheim, covers around 40 hectares spread across a remarkable patchwork of sites. Biodynamic farming was introduced in 1997, the domaine was certified organic by Ecocert in 1998 and biodynamic by Biodyvin in 2002. Yields are kept low, and horses still help work some of the soils. The result is wine with real density and a clear sense of place.
Zind-Humbrecht Grand Cru Riesling from Brand and Rangen
The two Grand Cru Rieslings here show just how differently one grape can speak depending on the rock beneath it. The Riesling Grand Cru Brand comes from a steep, south to south-east facing granite hillside just behind Turckheim. The granite is rich in black mica, and the domaine describes Brand Riesling as floral and fruity, with finesse and elegance rather than weight. It is expressive young but ages well.
The Riesling Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain is a different animal. Rangen, in the far south of Alsace, is one of the steepest vineyards in the region, a south-facing slope of volcanic tuff and greywacke formed from ash compacted under the sea some 350 million years ago. Clos Saint Urbain is a monopoly within it, watched over by a small chapel dedicated to Saint Urbain that dates from the end of the 15th century. The site ripens late, and the wines tend towards smoke, flint and a salty, energetic finish. The domaine suggests a drinking window stretching 20 years or more for recent vintages, so this is a Riesling to cellar as much as to open.
Beyond Riesling: the wider Zind-Humbrecht range
The domaine also makes Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Muscat from single vineyards such as Clos Windsbuhl, Heimbourg, Herrenweg and Clos Jebsal. Clos Jebsal, a small south-facing plot on gypsum-rich marl, is known for Pinot Gris made at Vendange Tardive or Sélection de Grains Nobles sweetness every vintage since 1989, among the domaine's most celebrated dessert wines.
Because ripeness varies so much between sites and vintages, every bottle since 2001 carries an Indice from 1 to 5 indicating sweetness. Indice 1 means dry, while higher numbers signal more residual sugar. It is worth checking before you pour.
Zind-Humbrecht FAQ
Is Zind-Humbrecht Riesling dry?
It depends on the cuvée and vintage, which is why the domaine prints a sweetness Indice from 1 to 5 on each label. The Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Riesling 2022, for example, is rated Indice 1, meaning dry.
Who owns Domaine Zind-Humbrecht?
The Humbrecht family. Olivier Humbrecht MW and his wife Margaret run the domaine, with their son Pierre-Émile joining in 2019.
Is Zind-Humbrecht biodynamic?
Yes. The domaine began biodynamic farming in 1997 and has been certified biodynamic by Biodyvin since 2002.
How long can Zind-Humbrecht Grand Cru Riesling age?
For a long time. Brand Riesling is approachable young but has a proven ability to age, and the domaine gives recent Rangen Clos Saint Urbain vintages a drinking window of two decades or more.